Making of Narzuta
Years ago, the linen traject was done manually using a single hand-operated machine. Nowadays, a separate device / machine is required for each operation. Nevertheless, those machines must all be controlled by people. It has surprised me how many people work in the factory and in the field. Handmade linen is therefore really an understatement. It's pure craftsmanship.
The linseed is sowed in March / April. Flax grows from linseed, the same linseed that you might add to your breakfast. However, the linseed for your breakfast is tested for Omega-3 values and the linseed for linen is tested for firmness. That is why there are 2 types of flax. Fiber flax and Oil flax. For clarity; we use fiber flax for linen.
The flax plant is in bloom in June / July. Each flower on the plant only grows for 1 day and only comes out when the sun comes up. Flax grows in the Netherlands, Belgium and France*. It can definitely recommend to visit a field, the flowers are very photogenic and it is wonderful to see that such a natural product eventually becomes linen.
* 80% of all flax in the world grows in the Netherlands, Belgium and France
The harvest starts in mid-August. Harvesting takes place in 3 stages.
When the flax has finished flowering and dried, it is pulled out of the ground, root and all. Then it is placed horizontally back on the field so that it can ret. Retting actually means drying flax. This process is very precise, a craftsman's joke is “if you let it ret for too long, it will rot”.
HARVESTING 2.3 - Turning
After x number of weeks (this depends very much on the weather) the flax plants are turned so that both sides receive the same weather treatment. This process is called turning.
HARVESTING 3.3 - Pressing
Once again after x number of weeks, the dried flax is cleared from the field and rolled into bales. These bales are stored and wait for the next process. A bale of flax can weigh up to 300 kilos.
Scutching removes the fibers from the wooden stem. The fibers are used for further linen production. The wooden stem is used for making paper, dollar bills, cigarette filters and chipboard. Nothing is thrown away.
Thousands of fine pins comb the fibers so that only a pure fiber remains. It looks like a wig and it is wonderfully soft.
Combined flax from various regions is always used to ensure consistent quality and color. During spinning, the flax fibers are twisted to join them together to form yarns of different weight and thickness. The spun flax is turned on "rolls" - these rolls of flax are called bobins.
Before weaving, the bobbins are placed in a so-called weavingtree. The yarns are connected to each other via the "tree" which is pulled through by a computer-controlled system into loom. The loom is connected to the weaving machine and woven with warp threads at high speed.
WASHING / CHECK
All linen that leaves the factory is pre-washed with a softening. It is true that linen shrinks the first time, but we have already done this for you. All linen is also closely checked before it leaves the factory.